
To celebrate our son’s first birthday, we settle on a London theme. By this, I mean that I settle on a London theme and my husband knows better than to object. I sketch a three-tiered layer cake, just like they do on The Great British Baking Show; it will be light blue fondant with Union Jack pennants and a fleet of double decker busses. The pièce de résistance will be the cake topper: a miniature crown molded from gold fondant and bedecked with edible pearls. This, mind you, makes perfect sense because our son was born within twenty four hours of Kate Middleton’s third baby and I had always intended to marry Prince William and my husband and I were very into watching The Crown on Netflix during the rare nights that we didn’t immediately fall to sleep after putting our newborn to bed.
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“You have to try these,” I tell a fellow South Philly boy-mom who lives across the street.
“What are they?” she asks.
“Brownies!”
She’s skeptical. They don’t look like brownies, but that’s because they’re made entirely of dates, tahini, and cocoa powder. In my twenties, I made brownies with sugar and eggs and pumped them full of espresso powder to fuel the all-nighters that got me through grad school. But that was when I lived in London. That was when I could stay up to write as long as I wanted. That was before I had to wake up the next morning and be responsible for another human being.
“No sugar?” she asks.
“No sugar.” This is because now that I’m in my thirties and all-nighters are no longer possible, I’ve gotten into Vitamixing. First, smoothies. Then, baby food. Now, DIY almond milk and sugar-free approximations of the traditional brownie. “I’ve actually given up sugar,” I say. “And dairy too. And caffeine. And alcohol.”
“All at once?”
“Yes,” I inform her, basking in the glow of my moral superiority. “It’s my New Year’s resolution.”
“You’re going to murder someone,” she tells me. She is doing Dry January and suggests, ever so gently, to avoid triggering any homicidal tendencies on my part, that I should try eliminating one vice at a time. But I stand my ground. I will become vegan. I will lose weight. I will rearrange the furniture. I will reupholster the couch instead of working on my novel. I will renovate the kitchen. And I will bake our son the perfect birthday cake because it is through my cakes that I prove to the world–and to my child–that I am a good mother.
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My son’s grandmothers both devoted their lives to the education of small children: my mother-in-law as a Kindergarten teacher, and my mother as the sort of stay-at-home mom/Sunday-school teacher/Girl Scout troop leader/4-H chaperone who could whip up a brand new batch of homemade Play-Doh in approximately thirty seconds.
I am good at Play-Doh–the homemade kind is just art with flour–but I do not particularly care for small children. I do not tolerate messes well. I prefer to bestow my educational zeal on young adults. College students present their own problems, but they are, even in their excuses, endlessly fascinating. Babies, on the other hand, are boring.
I make sure to document every not-boring thing my son does during the first year of his life–Held his head up! Rolled over! Sat on his own! Stood up!–but these accomplishments amount to little more than defying gravity. There is nothing stimulating here, nothing approximating fulfillment in my book. And yet, a good mother does not admit such things.
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On paper, our son’s birthday cake will be the most beautiful cake in the world. On paper, I take pains to “enjoy every moment” of motherhood. On paper, our child is a little “bundle of joy.”
In reality, he comes to us blue, with the umbilical cord wrapped around his neck. After the NICU, he won’t latch properly. After the lactation consultant, he needs physical therapy. After the infant chiropractor, a tongue tie revision. When he finally sleeps, I hook up my breast pump and make my way back to Netflix, back to the Bake Off tent—as they call the show in the United Kingdom–where joy is manufactured and perfection is possible.
Physically speaking, Paul Hollywood is not my type. The fifty-nine-year-old co-host of The Great British Baking Show is short and stocky, with the puerile spiked hair of someone who refuses to acknowledge they’ve gone gray. But those bread-kneading biceps. Those baby-blue eyes. I loved a man with eyes like that when I moved to London for grad school. But again: that was before I got married. Before I had a child. Before I learned that life would occasionally require the outsourcing of my orgasms to bread-baking fantasies involving Paul Hollywood.
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When our son is three months old, I think I’m having a heart attack so I drive myself to the ER. The doctor tells me I’m fine; I’ve simply pulled a muscle while lifting our baby to nurse.
At four months, the pediatrician tells us we can “extinguish” the night feeds but I can’t stop crying when we move our son out of the co-sleeper and into his own room. My husband gives me noise canceling headphones, turns on my favorite sitcom, reminds me that our child is literally four feet away. But four feet might as well be his freshman year of college, so I burst into tears all over again.
My mother-in-law comes to visit. She bakes casseroles. She does laundry. She slips into the nursery to hold our son when he cries. We’re meant to be sleep training. I am not kind about this fumbling of our plans. I have to take myself out to the front porch to calm down. I have to take the dog around the block. When neither of these things works, I order books–more books–that promise to preserve my sanity and get my baby to sleep and solve my diastasis recti by magically knitting my abdominals back together.
At six months, an editor I met on a press trip commissions me to profile a famous choreographer for her magazine. My heart leaps. My mother offers to babysit. I take my laptop straight to the coffee shop, having already conducted the necessary research during nap time. The words come slowly because I am out of practice but I am alive again, if only for a few hours. So alive, in fact, that I stick my foot in my mouth when I tell my stay-at-home-mother how happy I am to finally be going back to “work.”
It takes me several years before I can ask my husband, “Do you think I had postpartum depression?”
“Of course,” he says. “I thought you knew?”
But I didn’t know. I just baked cakes.
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Between feeds, I teach myself how to make fondant with melted marshmallows and powdered sugar. I teach myself how to stack a three-tiered cake with wooden dowels and cardboard. At last, I decide to take my newly-acquired skills for a test drive. The result is not the elegant, three-tiered, astronomy-themed cake I had intended to make for my husband but more a deflated alien spaceship.
“It still tastes very good,” my husband tells me. “Don’t worry.”
I try not to cry.
“You’re right,” I tell him. “I’m being silly.” An alien space ship is at least astronomy-adjacent.
Still, I push the stroller to Home Depot. The internet tells me that masonry tools will get the frosted edges of my bakes nice and crisp. And a crisp edge with a 90-degree angle is what separates a good baker–a good mother–from a failure.
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Here, in pictures, I am good. Here, over the years, my child is hiking, camping, playing T-ball, building sandcastles with his cousins, sitting atop his father’s shoulders to set a star atop the Christmas tree. Here are finger paints and homemade Halloween costumes and culturally enriching activities like painting en plein air along the Schuylkill.
But sometimes I am not good. Sometimes I am just too tired for watercolors along the Schuylkill: the bikes, the snacks, the paints, the paintbrushes, the mason jar full of water to clean them, and the paper towels needed to dry them. Sometimes I just wish my son would be quiet so that I can write.
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The London cake is off to a much better start than the astronomy cake. But the crown I have sketched in my notebook refuses to materialize. Perhaps this is because I don’t want just any old crown. I want the crown from The Crown. But the crown from The Crown is made of gold. Mine is not. Mine collapses under its own weight.
It occurs to me that I could just top the cake with a candle in the shape of a number one from the Dollar Tree on Oregon Avenue, which is where I’ve bought the cake mix and all of the necessary frosting because I’m more concerned with how the cake looks than how it tastes. (Don’t tell Paul Hollywood.) But there is no artistry in this solution, no room for creativity.
Finally, inspiration strikes: I will top the cake with a fondant Paddington bear.
I very dutifully resisted the urge to spend £45 on a Paddington onesie at the Cath Kidston boutique the last time I was at Heathrow. Considering that I was seven months pregnant at the time and flying to attend the memorial service of my favorite professor, this took considerable restraint. But now, I shall reap my confectionary rewards.
I spend three days on Paddington, and for three days I am almost alive again: royal blue fondant for his coat; red for the hat; brown for his head and various appendages.
At the Michaels on Columbus Boulevard, I treat myself to an assortment of fondant tools. They look like something a dental hygienist might use: pokey things and pointy things and mirrored choppy things. One has a serrated triangle on the end and makes a perfect stitch-like effect on the edge of Paddington’s blue overcoat. Even though he ends up a bit lopsided and must be secured atop the cake with half a dozen toothpicks to keep him from plunging three stories to his death, my mother-in-law is astounded: You made that???
Yes. Yes, I did. I set the cake in the center of the dining room table, and the cousins and aunts and uncles and grandparents gather round. I am wearing the same preppy blue-and-white dress that I wore to my brother’s wedding and have dressed our son in a coordinating blue-and-white sailor suit. We manage to snap a few photos before he tosses off the matching hat. The stitch-like details on Paddington’s coat are so vivid that they even show up in the photos I post to Facebook, which I know because people have commented on them, and this confirms that I’m a good mother.
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But everything is not perfect. Only later would I learn that anthropologists have a term for the process of becoming a mother: matrescence. Nobody ever uses this term, not even that favorite professor, who was, in fact, both an anthropologist and a mother. When she learned of my pregnancy, her only advice was to keep working so that I could afford childcare, lest I lose my “potential.” Even as I type “matrescence,” Microsoft Word runs a furry red caterpillar–a very hungry caterpillar?–beneath the word, urging me to consider a correctly-spelled alternative. Is this because motherhood is meant to come naturally? Automatically? Does the process of becoming a mother–of determining the sort of mother you’re meant to be–not even deserve a name?
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At the end of the party, Paddington sits alone atop a small plate because no one actually likes to eat fondant, not even my two preteen nephews who usually eat anything.
“Where would you like me to put him?” my mother-in-law asks, cupping the bear like a sanctified communion wafer.
“You can just throw him out,” I tell her, switching the baby from one hip to the other.
“But you worked so hard!”
“It’s okay,” I tell her. “What am I going to do with a fondant bear?”
She offers to take it home and put in her freezer.
“I can shellac it,” she says.
And for a moment, this actually seems like a good idea: Paddington from our son’s first birthday, then the trash truck from his second. We’ll have to switch to individual cake pops for his third, because of the pandemic, and then we’ll overcompensate with mason jar cakes and a fleet of rented quadricycles on Boathouse Row for his fourth, but for his fifth birthday, I’ll bake a mermaid-themed sandcastle cake, complete with a beach of brown sugar, ice cream cone turrets, and handmade chocolate seashells. My mother will be so impressed that she’ll call the neighbors to come see.
But is this the sort of woman I want to be? Channeling my creative impulses into birthday cakes when, beyond the highly choreographed fantasies of the Bake Off tent, beneath the socially acceptable performance of motherhood, I actually care so little for baking that I use a boxed mix from the dollar store?
Poor Paddington with his perfect stitching deserves a more dignified fate than that. So, too, does my son. So, too, does his mother, this woman that I have become. And so, on the afternoon of his first birthday, I put him down for his nap. I sneak into the kitchen. I take Paddington from his solitary throne in the freezer and I throw the fondant bear into the trash.
Then, I write. I write in fits and starts. I write in the margins. I write in between the cakes over the years. And by the time my son turns six, I don’t care about anything being Pinterest-perfect anymore because I’ve gotten myself into a fully funded MFA program for creative writing. An ice cream sundae bar, I decide, will do the trick and my therapist is very proud of me.
For his seventh birthday, halfway through my degree, my son decides he wants a pirate ship. We scroll Pinterest together.
“That one’s perfect!” he declares, zooming in on a veritable flotilla created entirely from fondant. But then my son–who is brilliant and kind and endlessly creative–remembers what I’ve taught him.
“Actually, nothing is perfect. But could we make a kraken out of fondant? Like, a really big one?”
“Absolutely,” I tell him. And together, we make a complete mess of the kitchen: clouds of confectioners’ sugar coating all of our appliances, melted marshmallows congealing in the microwave, food coloring- blue, green, inky purple- staining both the countertop and our fingertips. The color scheme is “ocean” so anything goes. And when my son wants to add another layer of white chocolate pirate skulls to the base, I tell him to go for it. “But save one for the crown,” I suggest, because even the deadliest of beasts deserves to feel fancy.
And this crown materializes: yellow fondant with seven spikes and a pirate skull in the middle. We mold seaweed from green fondant, ocean waves from Dollar Tree frosting, sea shells from sea salt caramel flavored candy melts. And when we top the cake with a perfectly imperfect eight-tentacled kraken, I don’t even bother to post a picture on Facebook. I’d rather share that I’ve just published my first short story, and it’s been nominated for a Pushcart.
Kat Echevarría Richter is a fellow in the Creative Writing MFA program at Rutgers-Camden. Her work has appeared in Glamour, Glassworks, and Skirt and her essay “Becoming Boriqua” won first prize from LMNL Arts. Kat lives in South Philly with her partner, their child, and a neurotic but loveable rescue dog.








